Orlocks Part 2: Painting Guide

img_0469Another three Orlocks polished off this week! I had to move a bit quicker with these guys than the first three so I’m not quite as happy as last week’s bunch, and they seem to have come out a bit darker overall as well. Maybe it’s because I didn’t use as much white on these ones or something. Nevertheless, they work well as a six, so I’m on the right track.

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It’s a good week for Necro. Gang War 3 and the Van Saars, as well as a whole bunch of hired guns are up for pre-order as of the weekend, and Gang War 3 looks like it has a lot of tasty new resources in it. A mountain of Trading Post content (my favourite is the option to buy gold-plated weapons as prestige upgrades for leaders), as well as a ton of rules and ideas for arbitrator led games and campaigns, on top of a bunch of new missions like the old classic Shoot Out.

I rarely write down my painting recipes, usually just plucking out the paints that look about right and seeing how things go, but with painting these guys in small batches over a few weeks, I needed them to be more consistent, so I started scribbling down what I was doing. Also, a few people here on the blog and over on the Necromunda Facebook page had asked how I did various bits, so I’ve committed them to 1’s and 0’s below, for my own reference as much as anyone else’s! If I’d have considered it ahead of time I’d have taken step by step photos, but there’s nothing too complicated in here anyway.

When I’m painting, I usually start from the inside layer and work my way out, touching up mistakes as I go. For the Orlocks, I paint their parts in the following order;

  1. Undershirts
  2. Trousers
  3. Jackets, boots and gloves
  4. Shoulder pads and gun casings
  5. Metals, including bases
  6. Tabards
  7. Skin and hair
  8. Remaining details, yellow weathering

Note: You’ll probably see me use base paints as highlight colours and other such heresies. That’s just because it’s what I’ve got on hand in my relatively small collection of paints, not for any creative or technical reason.

1. Undershirts

When painting the undershirts, I choose one of three different schemes, either white, grey, or blue. If I’m doing them blue I’ll do the sleeves as well, otherwise the sleeves get done with the jackets. The recipes are as follows;

White undershirt – Celestra Grey basecoat > Nuln Oil recess shade > Ulthuan Grey highlight. I then add a very thin glaze of Rhinox Hide in the recesses to make it look a bit dirty and grimy.

Grey undershirt – Mechanicus Standard Grey basecoat > Nuln Oil wash > Dawnstone highlight > Celestra Grey highlight

Blue undershirt – Stegadon Scale Green basecoat > Nuln Oil recess shade > 50/50 Stegadon Scale Green/Russ Grey layer > Russ Grey highlight > Celestra Grey highlight

2. Trousers

When I come to the trousers it’s time to make a decision on the colours of the rest of the model. If I’m doing the trousers black, the jacket and boots will usually be brown, and vice versa. While sartorially dubious in real life, it adds some nice variation on the minis. If the undershirt is blue, the trousers won’t be, but other than that there are no wrong answers. On one of my guys this week, I tried to do a ‘man in black’ biker gang look for one of them, but I’m not quite sure about the final result, so I might have been better sticking to the black and brown combo palette.

Black leather – Abaddon Black basecoat > Eshin Grey highlight > Dawnstone highlight

Brown leather – Rhinox Hide basecoat > Nuln Oil wash > (optional thick Rhinox Hide highlight on large flat areas like the back of the jackets) > Doombull Brown highlight > Vermin Brown highlight (an old pot still going strong for me, but Skrag Brown is probably the closest colour in the current range)

Blue “jeans” – Stegadon Scale Green basecoat > 50/50 Stegadon Scale Green/Russ Grey layer > Russ Grey highlight >Ulthuan Grey highlight

3. Jackets, boots and gloves

The brown and black jackets, boots and gloves were painted with the same recipes as the trousers. The red gloves were as follows:

Red fabrics – Mephiston Red basecoat > Nuln Oil recess shade > Evil Suns Scarlet highlight > Wild Rider Red highlight

4. Shoulder pads and gun casings

I wanted to do these black, but differentiate them from the black leather and make them look like a different material, like vulcanised rubber or something, so I opted for a very dark blue.

Dark blue – 50/50 Stegadon Scale Green/Abaddon Black basecoat > Nuln Oil recess shade > Stegadon Scale Green highlight > Russ Grey highlight

5. Metals, including bases

I painted the metals as clean pieces originally, but they looked a little flat, so I added a rusty patina to them to make them a bit more interesting and tie them into the rest of the colour scheme. The metals on the models are the same as the metals on the bases.

Metals – Leadbelcher basecoat > Nuln Oil wash > 50/50 Agrax Earthshade/DoombullBrown heavily watered down and stippled on > Stormhost Silver highlight, applied as dots and lines to give the impression of a nicked and dented edge.

Note: I also applied fine scratches and dots to the larger metal panels using Stormhost Silver. On the weapons, I kept the weathering to small patches in the recesses, to show that they’ve been more carefully maintained. In addition, I added 50/50 Nihilakh Oxide/Coelia Greenshade or watered-down Doombull Brown to some of the screw holes and recesses. Do this very sparingly though.

6. Tabards

The tabards are done white, black, and red, using the same formulae as the fabrics above. For the white tabards, I did an extra highlight of White Scar. To paint the triangle patterns, I used Mephiston Red as for the red ones, and Ceramite White for the white.

7. Skin and hair

For the skin, I departed from the standard GW style that I’d emulated on the rest of the models and tired to get it to look like the way it’s done by the FW painters like Giuseppe, for example.

Light skin – Bugman’s Glow basecoat > 50/50 Bugman’s Glow/Flayed One Flesh layer > 25/75 Bugman’s Glow/Flayed One Flesh layer > Flayed One Flesh highlight > Pallid Wych Flesh highlight

Dark skin – Rhinox Hide basecoat > Leviathan Purple recess shade > 50/50 Rhinox Hide/Doombull Brown layer > Doombull Brown highlight > Bugman’s Glow highlight

I’ll not write the recipes for the hair, as I do it differently on every guy, and very much wing it. If you’re after a specific one, drop me a comment below.

Note: For the eyes, I try to not get paint in them as I’m doing the skin, so that I can just do two dots of white either side of the eye to leave a black pupil in the middle. I usually mess this up though, and end up having to go back and forwards with black and white until it’s right!

8. Remaining details

Remaining details include painting the bandages and headbands, using the white and red fabric recipes above, and painting the lenses of the photo-goggles.

Lenses – Stegadon Scale Green basecoat > Russ Grey layer > Ulthuan Grey highlight

I also did the yellow servo claw, with its extensive weathering, at this stage. I’ll probably use the same recipe for any other special close combat weapons I opt for, and maybe some of the bigger bits of construction equipment and heavy weapons that I might give to my champions in the future, just to make them nice and noticeable on the table.

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Weathered yellow – Averland Sunset basecoat > Cassandora Yellow wash > 50/50 Rhinox Hide/Agrax Earthshade watered down recess shade > Paint on chipping with Rhinox Hide (just use a fine tipped brush and keep adding dots and lines until it looks right) > 50/50 Averland Sunset/Ushabti Bone highlight along the “edges” where the yellow paint meets the brown weathering > Doombull Brown highlight on the larger brown areas (like the thumb on my servo claw) > Cassandora Yellow glaze on the lower halves of the yellow sections.

And there you go. Hope it’s helpful; it certainly will be for me! I’ve still got another four guys to go, and I might try and tackle two of them this week, but the wrist on my right hand has been killing me this week and I’m sure painting for hours almost every evening isn’t doing it any favours, so I might take a break this week and do some planning and writing for future stuff.

~ Ross

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